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Etiquette expert Aija Odiņa' recommendations, author of Lietišķās un oficiālas uzvedības grāmata (a book published in Latvian on practical etiquette) on how to dress at the Academic Ball.

Dark suit

For men

For the dress code "dark suit", the choice of colour is limited: black, dark blue, or dark grey. If you choose to wear a grey suit, make sure it is very dark - almost black. A dark brown suit is not an option.

Single or double-breasted jackets are acceptable. The last button of a single-breasted jacket is always undone. If the jacket has three buttons, it is also acceptable to undo the one at the top.

A single-coloured shirt is worn with the suit. Conventionally, the colour of the shirt should not be darker than that of the jacket, but the tie must be darker than the shirt.

1 or 2 centimetres of the shirt cuffs have to visibly stick out of the jacket's sleeves. Elegant cufflinks in a precious metal are recommended with a dark suit on an evening occasion.

A waistcoast underneath the jacket is optional. If you choose to wear one, make sure to keep the lower button undone.

The necktie pattern may vary according to taste considering one's personal status or job position. The more official the person, the "calmer" the pattern and colour of the tie. A less official person can go for a more artsy, brighter tie.

It is considered acceptable for a necktie to reach the belt buckle. For your tie, use the Four-in-Hand, Shelby/Pratt, Windsor, or Half Windsor knot and arrange it tightly to the collar of the shirt. A necktie pin is also acceptable, but make sure it is aligned with the outer pocket of the jacket or between the 4th and 5th buttons of the shirt. 

The colour of the belt must match that of the shoes and gloves.

The gentleman wears formal black fine leather laced shoes (no buckles, clips, zippers, etc.) with the dark suit. 

The colour of the socks must match that of the shoes, thus fine black socks would be appropriate.

Length of the trousers: there must be a two-finger gap between the lower rim of the back of the trouser leg and the floor.

For women

If "dark suit" is the dress code defined in the invitation, women are recommended to wear a smart dress suit, a dress, or a cocktail gown. The length of the skirt or dress is conventionally short, meaning it reaches the knee or within a hand's width above or below it.

The colour of the dress suit may be the same as that of the accompanying gentleman's suit or different. It is made of high quality fabric and is not transparent or patterned. The blouse or top underneath the jacket is single-coloured; however, the fabric of the costume may have an elegant pattern, if you choose not to wear a blouse or top.

A small handbag with a short handle goes well with the outfit; likewise, you can choose one with a long strap or a thin chain. Never place your handbag on the table. Instead, you can put it in your lap, place it on the chair behind you, or hang it on the backrest of the chair.

The dress must be slightly low-cut and not shorter than at least a hand's width above the knee. A clutch or short-handle handbag will be the appropriate choice to go with a cocktail gown.

To cover up your shoulders, you can match a smart shawl, scarf, or fur with your dress. However, such accessories must be fixed well to avoid situations where frequent re-adjustment is needed, which could cause a feeling of awkwardness and draw others' attention. Younger women may also choose to wear a bolero jacket.

Only closed-toe shoes are permitted. The sides and heels are the only shoe parts that may be open. The heel of the shoe may be even as high as 10 centimetres.

Choose stockings that match the dress or the shoes. the more elegant the shoes, the thinner the stockings (7 and 10 den); higher density stockings are also permitted (15 and 20 den) in the cold season.

Elegant hairstyle; an evening coiffure will do well for the occasion. Hairpins or hair clips are permitted, but never a rubber hairband.

Should you wish to wear jewellery, items made of precious metals are recommended.

Black tie

For men

A tuxedo is evening wear worn at events after 18:00.

A tuxedo jacket is similar to that of the classical suit, its collar is always silk-covered.

A black bow tie is worn with the tuxedo. However, occasionally, another colour is appropriate by matching the colour of the lady's evening dress or contrasting with it.

Trousers: black, without turn-ups, with silk ribbon stripe on the outside edge.

Shirt: classical white or with wing collar.

Black silk belt with open, upwards pleats should be worn. A belt in another colour is permissible by matching the colour of the lady's evening dress or contrasting with it.

The gentleman wears formal black fine leather laced shoes or black patent leather shoes and black silk socks.

A white pocket handkerchief is acceptable.

The tuxedo jacket should always be buttoned.

Outer garments

Make sure that outer garments match the style of the suit. A fabric, leather or fur coat with buttons will go well with a dark suit.

For women

Women wear a long or short evening dress, smart trouser, or dress suit. The skirt can end either above or below the knee. Occasionally, women can even wear a gentleman's tuxedo or tailcoat.

If the length of the evening dress is not specified in the invitation, it could be either, however,  a floor-length evening dress will be the most convenient for dancing.

It is acceptable for ladies to choose two-piece wear - a dress suit. The skirt can have slits.

A pant suit must be loose-fitting without pleats.

The dress can have a bare neck, but not be too low-cut. To cover up your shoulders, you can match a fur, silk scarf, or shawl.

The fabric of the evening gown: smart silk, taffeta, velvet, lace. The evening gown should be of single-coloured fabric, there are no other restrictions in colour.

You can wear smart, closed-toe pumps made of thin leather or patent leather with high heels. Shoes can be gold or silver in colour, made of silk or brocade, or embroidered. Choose the finest tights. Silver or gold sheer glitter tights are permissible.

Bag: small, elegant, envelope clutch, or short-handled, made of leather, gown fabrics, other decorative fabrics, with pearls, matching the shoes.

Gloves used to be a must-have accessory, however, now it is not the case - you can choose to wear them depending on the style of the gown.

Jewellery of precious metals, smart design jewellery is recommended. Costume jewellery is not appropriate, likewise, the combination of costume jewellery and jewellery is not considered to be acceptable. A watch and cap are not appropriate.

Outer garments: make sure that outer garments match the style of the dress.  A fabric, leather or fur coat with buttons will go well with a dark suit. You can wear a cape, scarf, or shoulder wrap as outer garment.